Rome: Day 3

Time to cash in that 13 years of Catholic school and make my family proud by seeing the big man himself, El Papa. Upon arriving in St. Peter’s Square, we quickly realized the tickets we picked up the day before we no more than a good way for the distributing church to make a few Euros (there are worse people to give money to). At least they make a good souvenir for my great aunt. Thronged with people though not complete filled, the pilgrims released an uproarious cheer when the pope mobile entered the plaza. It was like a Stones concert, only with a lot less drugs and music and a lot more praying. Though, the crowd was probably about the same age.

After the Mass, we meandered down to the river and into some back streets. For the first time we found a non-tourist café to grab an affordable bite. The onslaught of Americans in Rome astounded me. Everywhere we turned, American accents. I felt like I was at the Italy pavilion in EPCOT Center not the real thing. Unfortunately, the pervasiveness of Americans may have had a detrimental effect on some of our experiences; we met some of the rudest people we’ve ever encountered in Rome, to no fault of ours. I still love the city, and would never let a few people to ruin my perception, but, man, it sucked.

We strolled the serpentine backstreets up to Piazza di Popoli (a large public square that come alive particularly at night), into the park around the Borgese Villa (now an appointment-only museum that we decided to skip) and down the Spanish Steps (more construction). I drooled in Pucci and Gucci stores, while Sean drooled over more gelato.

Trastavere was our evening destination, after a nap and a picnic snack from our local charcuterria. Lined with outdoor bars and cafes, the area pulses with activity as the sun goes to sleep and could be likened to the LES or East Village in New York for the young, hip atmosphere. Rebuffed from our first choice restaurant for lack of reservations – despite the many empty tables – we found our own piece of Roman culinary heaven at a tiny osteria called Le Mani in Pasta.

Out of the way of the tourist bustle, the tiny restaurant served up succulent fresh seafood and pasta. We devoured sea bass carpaccio with porcini mushrooms drenched in olive oil, linguini with bacon and cheese, gobs of fresh bread and olive oil and cooked sea bass, all washed down with a bottle of smooth white wine. I was afforded an excellent view into the kitchen, where the lighthearted staff laughingly played with tomorrow’s dinner, live lobsters and crawfish. We lingered until the wee hours of the morning, which would have been lovely except for the fact that we missed the last bus back and not a taxi could be found. If it wasn’t before, we made Rome a walking city.

[08.05.28] Rome Day 3

Rome: Day 2

Probably our most intense travel day over the whole trip. Since we had lost a day thanks to Aer Lingus, we prepped for some serious sightseeing. I should have shut up about being cold in Ireland, because Rome was hot as Hades. After a morning touring the famous ruins of the Forum, the Palatine Hill and the Colosseum, we stopped for a leisurely lunch overlooking the aforementioned ancient stadium, indulging in Caprese salad (refreshing mozzarella and lusciously ripe tomato) and the best gnocchi I have ever tasted.

Satiated, we zoomed over to the Vatican – what would be the seventh country on this trip for both of us. We had tickets to see the pope in the morning, but knew the crowds would be horrendous before or after the Mass. Torrents of tour guides and tourists flooded the Vatican Museums, obviously detracting from the experience. However, we particularly enjoyed the Braccio Nuovo (“New Wing”), as many of the guides skipped the austerely marbled hall, and the Gallery of Maps, adorned in gold-dusted cartographic frescoes. The Sistine Chapel was less stunning now as when I first saw it, but I admit the hordes of slack-jawed gawkers definitely detract from the masterpiece.

After a quick gelato break, we headed to St. Peter’s Cathedral, stunning as always. The church is so named because interred within are the remains of St. Peter, father of the Catholic Church, apostle, Jesus denier and the first pope. While St. Peter’s is rife with elegant and alluring art, I really love the touching, human character inherent in Michaelangelo’s “Pieta”. He carved it when he was just 21! Makes me feel like a slacker.

By far, the most interesting moment/detail of our visit to San Pietro was visiting the resting place of Pope John Paul II. Last time I was here, silence drenched the papal crypt, myself the only visitor. This time, a knot of people jostled for a quick glimpse of the recently departed pope’s humble tomb. People scratched prayers on whatever paper they could find and tossed them in the corner of the resting area. Nuns crossed themselves and children craned for a look. While I long ago resigned myself to letting go of much of my Catholic upbringing, I admit that I too was a bit moved as we walked by. Religion aside, he was a great man and a pivotal figure in 20th century history.

Exhausted, we headed home, grabbing some prosciutto, wine, cheese and salami on the way, a picnic-style tradition we would continue in most of or stops. Later that evening, we headed to Piazza Navarro, which we found rather touristy and unappealing, especially because construction dominated the square. We attempted to have a snack at a popular pizzeria, only to be berated by the owner for not ordering more than some wine and a few light bites. It was 11:30PM! Late by even Roman standards. The encounter left a taste in our mouths worse than that from the cheap wine they served.

[08.05.27] Rome Day 2

Rome: Day 1

Eight hours or so after planned, we arrived in the city of lurve: Roma. Unfortunately, the long day left us anything but amorous as we trudged into the city and up a huge hill to our B&B. Curveball numero dos: My brand new, never-been-used big suitcase, stuffed with 50+ lbs of formal attire and beachwear broke! Sorry, Sean! Luckily, our B&B was super cozy, and we could finally throw off our bags for a few days.

After a quick rest, we hit the town to see Rome the way it should be seen for the first time – at night. While my soles already know the Roman cobblestones, this was Sean’s first visit. Bathed in the soft yellow glow of the street lamps, we walked past the Colosseum (under which a bustling gay bar scene thrives), by the overwhelmingly opulent Vittoriano and over to the Trevi Fountain, where Fellini captured the very essence of the Roman joie de vive. Being a Monday, and very late – just past midnight – the fountain was not overrun with tourists and provided a wonderful backdrop to our first of many pizza meals. After a couple scoops of gelato – of which we would consume gallons over the next week – we walked back home, ready to pass the f*** out.

[08.05.26] Rome Night 1