Cesme: Day 3

Seallean’s World Wide Wedding tour is about to come to an end! After more poolside lounging to sweat out the previous night, we gathered for the big event. Everyone looked stunning, and with good reason … I have not seen a more fairytale setting for a wedding. Perched atop Cesme harbor, the wedding took place in Cesme castle, once a strategic military spot to protect the port. But for one night only (this is the first and probably only wedding that will take place there), the castle was transformed into a flower-filled secret garden for our favorite lovebirds. Well, not too secret: Given the high profile of the wedding at the castle, a number of Turkish paparazzi where on hand to document the event. I even got my picture taken by one. Turkish US Weekly, here I come!

The ceremony was very short, since they had legally married two weeks before in Ohio, but nevertheless incredibly touching. Now it was time to party! The tables overlooked the harbor, where the setting sun provided better lighting than even the best lighting technician could dream up.

Chrissy told me there would be some surprises that evening, and the first was the skyward sprays of sparks that let loose as the newlyweds were first announced. Spectacular! The dinner itself was incredible, beginning with a plate of various Turkish mezzes, moving to risotto and then an upscale surf-n-turf with sea bass and beef. I can’t recall the dessert, but I’m sure that’s because I had previously died and gone to heaven. Dancing to the live band interspersed dinner, and I even got down with Onur’s dad. Papa Gulec can shake it! So can Mama Gulec! Don’t mess with her on the dancefloor or you will get owned.

During dinner, another surprise was presented: traditional Turkish dancers! They performed a special dance for Onur and Chrissy, a special moment highlighting how incredible this cross-cultural union is. The best part was the evening’s end, when the traditional dancers and musicians worked the entire crowd into a frenzy, spinning us round and round in wild circle dancing that was more fun than the best club night out I’ve ever had. Thank you so much, Onur and Chrissy, for this special gift!

After such a full night, you’d think it ends there, right? Obviously, you don’t know how my crew rolls. Max, my good friend Karel’s boyfriend, had pulled some strings to open up a beach club for a private wedding afterparty. After a costume change into comfier duds, we hopped back on the bus and headed for the beach. Unfortunately for me, I had developed a nasty cold and was feeling worse by the minute. Usually I’m ready to rumble, but getting through this night was tough. But because everyone had gone to such great lengths, and because it was my last few hours with Sean before he left, I stuck it out. Salim, another Istanbul friend, provided the minimal techno beats under a sky so clear that the Milky Way hazily smeared the heavens. When the bartenders started lighting the spray of Raid cans on fire, we knew it might be a good time to leave. I’m not quite sure, but I think we got back to the hotel around 4:30 or 5AM. Sean powered through, as his car was picking him up at 6AM for his journey home. Brave, brave soul. I was fast asleep when he departed.

[08.06.07] Cesme Day 3

Cesme: Day 2

While the soon-to-be-weds prepped, a bunch of the friend contingent got up early for a tour of Ephesus, some of the greatest ruins of the ancient world. Being the consummate host, Onur had arranged a private bus to shuttle us around the Izmir peninsula. While everyone else napped on the two-hour journey, I marveled at the undulating landscape with its pockets of pastel townhouses.

Before Ephesus, we made a quick stop at the House of the Virgin Mary, supposedly where the mother of Jesus spent her last days. As his dying wish, Jesus asked John the Evangelist to take care of his beloved mama. As the story goes, John moved Mary up to the Ephesian suburbs. The simple stone house, dropped atop a hill, failed to inspire the same kind of awe and reverence that I felt when seeing John Paul II’s resting place. Nevertheless, I lit a candle for my Catholic crew back in the US. After leaving the house, tradition dictates that visitors tie a piece of cloth or napkin around a nearby fence, and say a prayer (or make a wish, if you prefer). Many Catholics revere and pray to Mary as a mediator between themselves and Jesus. To dramatically simplify the reason why, it is because Jesus couldn’t possibly say no to his mom.

Next up, Ephesus. Rain dribbled from the dark clouds hovering above us, and we planned a wuick trip through the ruins, nabbing a tour guide to point out the important stuff. I was a bit distracted, and preferred enjoying the ruins at my own pace rather than hanging on the guide’s words. I do recall the public restrooms, which were bench-style and offered maximum opportunity to socialize while doing your duty, and the brothel, for which there was an advertisement in the ground with the outline of a foot. It said that if your foot was larger than the outline and you had money, head left to the brothel. If smaller and/or you were broke, head right to the library. The library was the most impressive part of the ruins, a three-story high façade with statues still shockingly intact.

Post-Ephesus we stopped at a place aptly titled “Ayran & Cipsis.” Ayran is a salty yogurt drink that I was unlucky enough to have tried on my first trip to Istanbul. I’ll pass. Cipsis is more my speed: mini-kebab skewers stabbed with meat and chicken. We feasted on Efes beer, cipsis, yogurt dip and salad at this outdoor meat mecca. The friendly waiters even gave Jane a free souvenir – a glass emblazoned with their funny mustachioed mascot.

After a quick dip back at the hotel, we got ready for a night on the town. Onur never had a bachelor party, so this was the time to get goofy, segregated-sexes style. We invaded a small nearby village with all the fervor or Ottoman maruaders, and after a quick aperitif, the boys headed to one restaurant while the girls headed to another. The dinner, as usual, was excellent (especially the steak), but the real fun came later. On the way to a bar, I had bought Chrissy a bright pink, inflatable plastic bear holding a big heart, which she promptly named “Bongo.” When we entered the bar, Turk extraordinaire Karel filled in the workers as to the occasion. Suddenly, a bowl-sized margarita glass appeared, into which a number of liquors were poured. A bottle held above the the glass, over which some other mystery liquid cascaded. The waiter told us to grab straws and get ready, and POOF! A tower of fire enveloped the makeshift fountain as we guzzled the yummy contents.

The fire was barely out when we heard a ruckus heading our way. Shouting “Onuuur, Onur, Onur, Onuuuur!” to the tune of “Ole, ole, ole, ole,” the bachelor party paraded into the bar, wearing coordinated T-shirts thanks to Herman, the Panamanian. The rest of the night devolved into perfect debauchery, including more fire fountains, alcohol being shot into the bride and groom’s mouth from two feet away and some Bongo humping. I’m pretty sure Onur had a great bachelor party. I know I did.

[08.06.06] Cesme Day 2